Saturday

Brawn


Brawn, Colombia Rd, Hackney, London, UK

Dear Ed Wilson, sorry to be so slow on the uptake here, but has anyone nominated you as the new challenger for the best nose-to-tail in town yet? Having been an avid St John-er, it took me a few visits to Brawn to decide, but I've been won over, and I'll tell you why. True, no one can touch a St John doughnut with a ten foot jam-filled pole, but no one can touch Brawn's sophisticated use of all things grown in the ground with a ten foot rake; and the holistic dining experience is improved for it. 

Heirloom tomatoes sing with a vivacious flavour that surprises even me, almost as much as my surprise at how appalling that phrase looks in black and white. #foodietwat . Beetroot salad, nettle soup and wild mushroom and polenta all remind me that the pidgeon/foie gras/pork belly need not always be the only hero on my plate. Vegetarians everywhere just held a mini-celebration, but probably too early, as I won't be passing up the lamb and ox dishes on offer at Brawn any time soon. 

Menu - 9
Atmosphere - 9
Originality - 9
Service - 7
Shifting my perceptions - 9

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