Dinner by Heston, Mandarin Oriental, 66 Knightsbridge, London, UK
Whenever I find myself at the Mandarin Oriental, one thing is usually on my mind, whether I can eat a whole Meat Fruit as well as three courses? It has to be creamiest foie gras and chicken liver mousse known to man, and for the unfamiliar, the only one that is displayed as an impressively real mandarin. Palmer-Watts' menu continues to deliver an excellent seasonalish selection with just a touch of history and flare. It's the crowd pleasing option as far as Heston's, or Heston sponsored endeavours go (let's ignore the 'for Waitrose' range and pretend all the UK chefs aren't selling out).
I have to question the circumstances that have led to the achievability of getting a table without having to sell an organ to a concierge, and I think it's variety, one new dish every 6 months makes for slow change in central London. Service is comfortably formal, and wait staff are knowledgeable and patient in explaining the heritage of each dish. For me, Dinner is the 'never fail' you take out-of-London visitors to for Saturday lunch once, and again, and again. Delicious.
Menu - 9
Atmosphere - 8.5
Originality - 9
Service - 9.5
Meat Fruit - 9